Swimming in Alabama

Ryan:
As we left St. George Island, we were leaving more than the company of family and a beautiful place. We were also leaving some comforts behind. We were, in fact, making the transition from luxury to camping. If the minor discomforts of camping really bothered us, we wouldn't travel the way we do. We do enjoy the relatives simplicity of it. Going from the beach house, Simsation, with every conceivable personal convenience, however, straight to camping with all of its communal facilities and simple yet laborious task, was going to be a bit jarring. Jarring or not, we were on our way back north, headed home, ready to find out what might lay on our route between St. George Island, Florida and West Springfield, Massachusetts. Our first two nights would be spent in Cheaha State Park in Alabama. It's claim to fame is that it is the highest point in the state which, while cool for the park, it  isn't saying a whole lot in relative terms.

Cheaha's CCC observation tower.

We spent the morning in Cheaha exploring some of the parks signature features. First we checked out the watch tower built by the CCC in the 1930s. From its top you have a 360° view of the surrounding landscape; the Appalachian chain to the north and the Alabama lowlands to the South. At its base is an attached museum dedicated to the CCC camp that built the park. 

Doofi.

Next we did a couple of short hikes, the bald rock and pulpit rock trails, both of which ended and gorgeous overlooks. For me the coolest part about this park was being able to look out across the landscape, imagining the Appalachians stretching all the way into Maine, while looking at the very southern tip where they seem to simply fizzle out. 

Bald rock lookout

Pulpit rock lookout

Jumping at Cheaha lake.

At this point it was still early but already becoming uncomfortably sticky and hot, so we headed back to the campsite, put together some lunch, and walked down the hill to Lake Cheaha for a swim. We spent the better part of the afternoon relaxing, playing, and cooling off in what was obviously a popular local watering hole.

The girls found this little guy at the water's edge above De Soto falls.

It was only a short 2 Hour drive to Desoto State Park, so we arrived early enough to get situated in our campsite before lunch (after switching because our original assignment was going to be just too damn sunny). We spent the afternoon exploring the area. A recent lack of rain meant that most of the areas waterfalls were not running, but we found De Soto falls at least making an effort. We had planned on cooling off in the Park's pool, but looking down on the cascade pool at  Desoto falls, we decided to try to find a way down. Kat found an online post about the trail we were looking for and we set out to find it. The path seemed pretty clear, but after a while, we realized we were still way too high up on the ridge. Luckily we came across a group of girls from a local summer camp rappelling the rock faces. They showed us a spot where we could climb down and pick up a lower trail, which turned out to be the one we wanted to be on in the first place. 

By the time we reach the pool at De Soto Falls, we were all sweat drenched and ready to plunge in. There was, however, no clear way of plunging.

The lake bottom is a jumble of slick and angular rocks, so getting in required some careful creeping. Kinsey's first toe touch of a slimy rock sent her into a frantic little "Nope, nope, no, no, no, no..." episode while Zoe and I worked our way into the water and across to the waterfall. As we climbed out of the water on the opposite side, Kat was bullying Kinsey into it. (Note from Kat:  it was Kinsey who wanted to go because she wanted to swim to the waterfall like Daddy and Zoë. I got in first and it took a bit to get her to follow me) eventually they made it across, and in the end it was a nice swim and a great hike.

The two parks have one thing in common; they are both Alabama state parks, which means they received very little funding from the state. At Cheaha there were solicitations to support the park because they are "self funded", and at De Soto there are thanks for supporting the park by being a "partner". The difference was all about the community. Cheaha was in the middle of nowhere and felt that way. The lack of support from the local community means that the roads are in rough shape and everything seems a bit run down. There is a very dumpy looking cell tower with a loud generator built practically on top of the park's historic centerpiece, the CCC tower. It seems that when the decision to build it was made, and must've been a financial compromise.

Cheaha's CCC observation tower, with cell tower.

Desoto, on the other hand, is located within a couple hours drive of Huntsville, Chattanooga, and Atlanta. It is surrounded by beautiful mountain homes and a few small towns. There is clearly more money in De Soto's local community than there is in Cheaha's. Scattered throughout the park are "Partners Pay the Way" posters explaining Alabama's park funding system and listing the local organizations and institutions that are contributors to the park. As a result of this local buy-in, the park is clean, quiet, and while there are things like a swimming pool and cable hook ups at all campsites, kept as natural as possible. The contrast in the two parks points out the flaw in Alabama's system. Cheaha is a pleasant and beautiful place, and if it had been properly funded, it might be a bigger draw and a more productive asset for a part of the state that could really use it. De Soto is a productive park for its community because of the local investment. Alabama's funding system seems to be more of a geographic lottery then a comprehensive system for protecting its natural and historic resources.

At De Soto's nature center, the girls hang out with "Muncho". (their name for him)

We had a lot of fun at both parks, and were pleasantly surprised by Alabama's beauty. Next we are headed to Nashville, Tennessee, Music City.