We were anxious to leave the heat of the lower elevations
behind us. We left Valley of Fire early Thursday morning and headed for the
Grand Canyon. We didn’t think we would be able to get a camping spot in the
park so we decided we’d camp at Jacob Lake which is about 45 miles north of the
North Rim. It was a nice well-kept campground hosted by an attentive older
couple. We settled into a spot conveniently located next to toilets and
dumpster. This may seem odd but when you’re traveling all summer convenience becomes
a heavy contender when weighing what spot to take. This particular campground
had the most spotless pit toilets we’ve seen yet. That and the fact we had cell
signal made it one of my favorites. Not to mention the very comfortable 70
degree weather which made it a nice place to relax.
Friday morning we headed into the park leaving the trailer
at the campsite. Our camp hostess had suggested we check out the lodge, and
named a few trails we should explore. Just beyond the entrance we were treated
to a great view of the park’s resident bison herd. After seeing only a few
bison here or there in the Badlands it was impressive to see such a large
group. There were quite a few babies in this herd.
Bison!
The meadows on the road out to the canyon were gorgeous
We stood on the side of the
road snapping pictures while Ry chatted with another observer. He was familiar
with the Utah park circuit and gave Ry a few tips about where to go. In
particular he mentioned Canyon Land so we added that to our list of stops for
the next week.
We pulled into the crowded lodge parking lot and made our
way towards the lodge. The Grand Canyon Lodge that currently sits on the North
Rim is the second incarnation. The first burned down in 1932 just four years
after it had been built. This lodge has been in place since 1937. It sits at
the end of Rt. 67 and essentially blocks your view of the canyon. You enter the
building and walk down the main staircase into the viewing room that is flanked
on either side by large stone verandas. The effect is stunning and quite
intentional. We hung around on the veranda for a bit relaxing and enjoying the
view. Thunderstorms were rolling across the southern rim offering quite a show.
We took the short hike to Bright Angel Point and tried to take in the immensity
that is the Grand Canyon. I visited the canyon once before when our family did
a western road trip back in the early nineties. It was the last stop on a long
trip and we were all a bit worn out at that point but I do remember not being
able to really comprehend it. Something that big is hard to take in as real.
View from the veranda at the lodge
Looking back at the lodge from one of the view points.
Another view from the veranda
Family pic at Bright Angel Point
We
returned to the truck and headed out a spur road that took us to Inspiration
Point and Cape Royal. The hike at Cape Royal was my favorite as it offered
great views of Angels Window, a large window in a rock promontory that framed
the canyon beyond. We had a lot of fun playing with pictures making it seem as
we were on the edge. I think we offered a bit of entertainment for our fellow
tourists.
Angel's Window
View from Cape Royal
The girls were much better actors than me.
Back at our camp site Zoë made friends with this Mountain Short Horned Lizard
Saturday we headed north to Bryce Canyon. We had done a bit of
research and determined that if we arrived in the early afternoon we should be
able to get a spot at the campgrounds in the park. I had also read they had
showers and laundry at the general store. We decided we would spend two nights
in the park. I figured we’d get laundry and organizing done on Saturday and then
have Sunday to explore. When we reached the park they had a geological fair set
up at the visitor center. We assured the girls after getting a campsite we
would come back and check it out. We located a spot in the North Camp ground in
the loop I had picked based on proximity to the general store, so we were
feeling pretty good. We headed over to the visitor center to explore the
booths. The girls enjoyed checking out the different exhibits and completing
the different activities. Ry and I enjoyed learning about all the Utah parks
who were represented there. We even saw a ranger we had talked to at the
Dinosaur National Monument a few weeks back. We added another stop when we
checked out the Capitol Reef National Park. This park wasn’t even on our radar
prior to seeing the booth.
Zoë and Kinsey learn about erosion and water flow.
On the way back to the site we swung by the general store to
investigate. We were slightly disappointed to realize the showers were $2 for
an 8 min. shower and involved using gold dollar coins. The laundry was also a confusing
mix of quarters and gold dollars. We got the girls an ice cream treat and got
the necessary coinage from the cashier before heading back to the site. It was
decided I would handle the laundry and grab a shower while Ry stayed with the
girls at camp getting things organized. I arrived in the laundry room to find
the small room crammed with a wide variety of humanity and much confusion.
There was some doubt as to which dryers worked or not and which coins went where,
as campers of all nationalities attempted to negotiate the perils of a very
small and crowded laundry room. I managed to get three loads in and successfully
started before retreating to try to take an 8 min shower. I opened the bathroom
door to find a line of women waiting for the showers. I smiled and closed the
door. I decided to sit on a bench outside and check my Facebook feed. After
what I guessed was about 20 min I returned to the laundry room to find a woman
shoveling out my wet clothes onto the table. I smiled and said “Sorry, I’ll
just get this out of your way.” I stuffed the wet clothes into my bag and
waited for a dryer. After about two hours of negotiating and trying to avoid
any international incidents I managed to get the laundry clean and mostly dry.
I even managed a shower. I returned to the campsite slightly less congenial
then I had left. That night I had what I call “a moment” the afternoon had been
annoying and I was missing simple luxuries like running water and electricity.
While I am well aware there are many places in the world these are neither
simple nor available I was finding I missed them. Ry and I had another one of
our small snits when I expressed that I was ready for a night in a hotel. He
suggested we could end the trip early if I was reaching my tolerance. I didn’t
take this suggestion very well and emphasized I merely wanted one night off. It
was decided we would book a hotel for one night outside Capitol Reef. I was
able to accomplish this the next morning and started my Sunday with a much
improved attitude.
We started our day at the visitor center and the girls were
introduced to the Junior Ranger program. With their booklets in hand we headed
out to “Hike the Hoodoos.” Our first stop was a geology talk at Sunset Point.
The girls needed to write what they learned and get the ranger’s signature as
part of their packets. The talk was fascinating and we learned what made Bryce
Canyon unique. Including the fact that it isn’t a canyon at all. It is actually
an eroded edge of a plateau. For it to be a canyon it would need a river and
there is no river in Bryce Canyon. Instead the edge of the plateau is eroded by
freeze and thaw cycles. The ice and snow melt into the sand stone and then
refreeze causing the rock to break away creating windows. These windows are enlarged
and eventually create the unique Hoodoos that are the hallmark of Bryce. The
Hoodoos are then further eroded by rain, eventually melting into a mound. The
edge of the plateau erodes so quickly that the park has to move the rim trail
every 10 to 15 years. The weather was a bit rainy but not yet threatening so we
decided to try the much lauded Navajo Loop where we would find the first of the
Hoodoo trail markers. (the girls needed to collect rubbings from three of them)
The trail headed down steep switch backs winding its way among the hoodoos and a
few hardy pines. Everywhere you looked where fascinating scenes. At the lowest
point in the trail you find yourself hemmed in by towering sandstone walls that
curve to create a partial ceiling above you. As we worked our way up the rain
began to fall with a bit more conviction so we decided to head back to the
campsite for a lunch. We hid in our respective vehicles until the sky’s began
to clear again.
Bill and Polli came along for the ride.
We have noticed that most of the National parks we stay in
we are more likely to hear a foreign language than English. We’ve had neighbors
from, France, Netherlands, Germany, Russia, and I’m sure quite a few other
places. Our first night at Bryce we had a Russian couple next to us with an
adorable Yorkie.
Zoë and Kinsey with Christopher
The next site over were some fellow east coasters, a family
from Maryland. The second night we had German neighbors that we had the
privilege to get to know a bit. Frank and Jan were a father and son pair that
were traveling a western route together, camping along the way. Jan had chatted
with us earlier with questions about where to find showers. He visited again
this time to discuss good hikes in the park. We shared our experience so far
and chatted a bit. Frank came over as well and we showed them the trailer.
Our second hike of the day was the Queen’s Garden trail.
This hike included quite a few small rock doorways that the girls had fun with.
We also saw a Great Basin Rattlesnake that someone had bashed the head in and
cut off the rattle with a sharp rock. While I may not be the biggest fan of
rattle snakes I was not happy to see one butchered for a trinket. We took a
picture to report it to the rangers. On our way out the thunder began to roll
and we quickened our pace. As we crested one rise we ran into Frank and Jan
heading the other direction. We chatted
briefly and then hurried on our way. We headed for the General Store to get out
of the rain. We shopped, enjoyed a bit of refreshment waiting out the downpour
on the porch wondering how Frank and Jan were fairing out on the trail.
poor snake
Waiting out the rain
We returned
to the campsite when there was a break in the rain. We ended up back in our
boxes for a while. That evening the skies began to clear so the girls and I
headed out on the rim trail to get the last hoodoo trail marker. The views were
spectacular as the setting sun shone on the tips of the surrounding peaks. A
rainbow appeared in the distance and the girls and I ooed and ahhed our way
down the trail.
That evening Ry learned the German word for hatchet (beil) and
shared campfire building techniques with our neighbors. We said “Gute Nacht”
and turned in for the night.
The morning dawned clear and bright as we began to break
camp. We were headed to a night at Capitol Reef Resort only 2 ½ hours down the
road so we weren’t in a hurry. Jan brought over his map book and we discussed
routes and possible stops for them as they planned to head to the coast in a
few days. We stopped by the visitor center on our way out so the girls could
turn in their Junior Ranger packets. They had their work checked, raised their
right hands and said a pledge and became Junior Rangers. They got their first
plastic badge, one of what is becoming many. We wish we would have started the
Junior Ranger programs earlier as they are a great way for kids to become more
involved in their visit to the park. Each program is a little different and
offers varying degrees of challenge. So far my favorite has been the Arches
booklet, but more on that later.
No comments:
Post a Comment